Club Car Precedent 48V 2 Gauge #2 Welding Wire Battery Cable HD Copper Lugs

Description

One set of five 2 gauge battery cables for Club Car Precedent 48 volt with six eight (6x8)volt battery setup.  These wires are made from premium Royal/Excelene 2 gauge welding wire.  The connectors are 2 x 5/16 copper lugs with tin coating or solid copper lugs with no coating, your choice....copper lugs will be an additional $.50 cent each, with each cable requiring 2. (I don't use cheap connectors on my big gauge wires!  Make sure you don't get the big gauge wire with crappy little connectors like so many here on eBay do!) Each wire is made custom in my golf cart shop by me.  Each one is soldered using silver solder connections, and then sealed with quality heat shrink to help prevent future corrosion issues. (*I do realize the photo here doesn't show heat shrink, it was a mistake on my part not noticing that, I made over 100 kits that day for photos and this was a later in the day photo, I was tired!  Yours will have the heat shrink) These wires are; 2 14", 2 9", 1 6" long.  Other sellers are selling longer cables......so they can charge you more.  (20" or more is to long for your side connections) Welding wire is commonly sold by the foot, so the longer the wire you buy the higher the price.  Some of your factory Club Car Cables are run past the battery poles and turned 180 degrees to attach.  More wire means the current has to run through greater resistance in order to reach its final destination, your motor.  The reason we upgrade from the factory 6 gauge is to get better flow with less resistance to get the best possible results in battery life, and to increase potential speed and torque......why make your battery pack work harder sending the current through more wire and great resistance???  I build custom carts all day long.  I service all makes and models, all day long.  I always use the shortest possible battery cables for many reasons, but the two main reasons are 1) to save my customer money 2) to help maintain quality battery pack lifespan and function.  If you need or want a different size, just ask and I can custom make you a set of any length you desire.  I have sets for all battery configurations, and for controller to motor or controller to solenoid or for all power wires in the cart power system.  I will include a diagram for the battery configuration in this auction to aid you in your install, should you forget which wires go where and I am always available via email for assistance in installation.  Any questions just ask!  Shipping will be via USPS Flate envelope, which I include FREE!  Typical delivery is 1-3 days via priority. Check out the pictures to see the quality!
•
I see these days a large number of "competitors" who are using very busy pictures and slightly modified versions of what I've had posted here for years.  Anyone who tells you that 1) heat shrink is not beneficial or 2) that acid is simply going to happen regardless knows absolutely nothing about golf carts and their batteries.  For the sake of time and length, I'll try and make this short but thorough.  Batteries create Hydrogen Sulfide gas (H2S) when charging, it is a byproduct of the chemical reaction that occurs in the cells.  That gas has to have somewhere to go.  Once of the most common mistakes in the cart world is overfilling the battery water (which is just as bad as never filling it, probably worse)  When you overfill the water cavity, you remove the available airspace where that gas would normally accumulate.  Since it can no longer stay in the case, it seeps out of the seals that are on the caps of the individual cells.  This is why you see what looks like water on the top of the batteries.  That is the hydrogen sulfide gas after it has condensed into a fluid and settles on the battery.  While it is nonreactive with the plastic, it is quite reactive with the lead posts.  Another chemical reaction occurs here which creates blue, green and yellowish white colored battery acid buildup on your posts.  This slowly eats at the metal and bit by bit the metal begins to disintegrate. When this happens, the nut on the cable becomes loose over time and begins to arc.  This process of arcing will cause a battery post to have a "meltdown" over time.  If this same process is allowed into the joint of your cable where it meets the lug, it will eat the connection of the cable inside the lug that attaches to the battery.  It does not matter if you have soldered joint, a crimped joint or a soldered and crimped joint, chemical reactions will occur.  A quality heat shrink keeps this from happening by keeping the H2S out of the joint.  All of our cables use a quality heat shrink, but we also offer an adhesive lined upgrade which will not be penetrated unless allowed to literally swim in corrosion for extended periods of time.  The simple key to avoiding all this is to not overfill your batteries.  Your water level should be 1/4 to 3/8ths of an inch from the top of the lead cells.  Yes, this does require you to check your water monthly to make sure you don't run below the cells, but it will also lead to a lifetime with ZERO corrosion issues and can extend the lifespan of your battery pack.  Batteries are expensive, the single highest cost to own part of a cart with a finite lifespan bar none.  Take some advice from a guy who owns a golf cart shop, protect your investment.  And p
lease remember, my cable kits are of the highest quality using only premium cable, lugs and silver solder.  You can find cheaper cables on ebay, but you won't find the quality of service or level of product that I offer anywhere else.  My 100% positive rating speaks for itself.  I sell the highest quality cable with the best after the sale service in the market, bar none.